Whether you’re buying your first home, selling a property you’ve lived in for years, or just staying ahead of routine maintenance, your inspection with Ingersoll Home Inspections starts the moment you make that first call. I’m a certified home inspector, and my goal is to walk you through the whole process so nothing feels like a mystery.
I follow the Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics set by InterNACHI, one of the most respected organizations in the home inspection industry. During your inspection, I go through every major system and component in the home and flag anything that needs a closer look or immediate attention.
Once the walkthrough wraps up, I’ll go over the home’s overall condition with you, and your real estate agent if you have one, and explain any significant findings in plain, everyday language. You’ll get a detailed report in both HTML and PDF format, complete with photos and clear descriptions of everything I covered. That report gives you a real, visual picture of the home and the confidence to make your next move.
I check the home’s major systems from top to bottom: the roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling, insulation, windows, doors, and more. Depending on the size of the property, a typical home inspection runs about two to three hours.
Clear away clutter from anywhere I’ll need access, including closets that lead to attics or crawlspaces, and leave some open space around the outside of the home. Make sure built-in appliances, electrical, and gas systems are working so I can test them properly. If you won’t be there in person, just make sure I have access to the home and that pets are secured.
Not exactly. A home inspection isn’t a pass or fail test. It’s a detailed look at the condition of a home’s components. You’ll likely see some items noted on your report, but those are there to inform you, not to grade the house.
In most cases, yes, it’s legally optional. But skipping it means you could end up owning a home with major issues you didn’t know about until it’s too late to negotiate.
I can point out what needs attention and even suggest next steps, but making repairs isn’t part of a home inspector’s job. That decision, and the choice of who does the work, is entirely up to you. Keeping those roles separate protects you from any conflict of interest.
It can go either way. If I find problems that need repair, that could lower the home’s appraised value until they’re addressed. On the other hand, documenting a well-maintained home can support a stronger valuation. Either way, the seller decides whether to make repairs or negotiate, and the buyer decides whether they’re willing to move forward as is.
Buyers can use the inspection report to negotiate a better price or ask for repairs, while sellers can choose to address issues before listing to justify their asking price.
A home inspection evaluates critical safety concerns such as electrical hazards, carbon monoxide risks, mold, and structural integrity.
We can point out components near the end of their lifespan (such as HVAC systems or water heaters) so you can budget accordingly.
Sellers who conduct pre-listing inspections can show transparency and build buyer trust, potentially leading to quicker offers and smoother negotiations.
Knowing the condition of the home helps you feel confident in your purchase or sale and reduces surprises after the transaction.
Roof coverings, gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, roof penetrations and the general structure of the roof.
Insulation and ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawl spaces, foundation areas and exhaust systems.
Siding, windows, exterior doors, flashing & trim, walkways, driveways, stairs, patios & decks, and drainage.
Foundation movement, cracks, structural concerns, and indication of water penetration.
Cooling system, location of thermostat, energy source and cooling method.
Heating system, location of thermostat, energy source and heating method.
Visible portions of the fireplace & chimneys, lintels, damper doors, and cleanout doors & frames.
Main water & fuel supply shut-off valves, water heater, interior water supply, toilets, sinks, tubs, showers, drain, waste and vent systems.
Service drop, overhead service conductors, service head & mast, main service disconnect, panelboards, grounding, switches, light fixtures, receptacles deemed to be AFCI & GFCI, and the presence of smoke alarms & carbon monoxide detectors.
Dishwasher, disposal, range, oven, microwave, refrigerator, exhaust, bathroom heater, garage door, doorbell, and dryer vent
Circulation, heating, filtering, electrical, water chemistry, and possible safety issues.
Representative number of doors & windows, floors, walls, ceilings, stairs, railings, garage door and openers.
